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The "first to second" clunk

11K views 38 replies 15 participants last post by  Jambriwal 
#1 · (Edited)
Having only had my Valkyrie for a week I'm still experimenting with different techniques to minimise the first to second gear clunk. Would appreciate any tips. I've read posts by guys who say they just avoid first and always start in second. Yes, I could do that but the "stubborn" in me would still like to master this shift :)
 
#3 ·
Yep, thanks for that. I think that's as good as it can get. I'm still trying to get rid of even the "snick" … ie like you can achieve in all the other upshifts if you get everything right…just a completely noiseless, notchless shift. Probably a big ask to try and get it from first to second though :rolleyes:
 
#4 ·
I think all my bikes have a 1st to 2nd "clunk". Or at least youll feel a longer throw to 2nd with a slight clunk. My Valk has it.But if I was to gripe any about the gl1800c gear box it would be how short 1st gear is. My first ride out the lot I spun the rear onto the street. However it was also a sign I got the right bike.. 😆😆😆
 
#5 ·
I do first to second because I paid all that money so I am going to use it but the thing will not even care slightly less if you start in second. 1st gear is for pulling Goldwings with trailers or towing a car.


Anyway on mine I have found it much prefers not to have the clutch pulled in all the way when doing such things.
 
#7 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by shrubbo View Post
Anyway on mine I have found it much prefers not to have the clutch pulled in all the way when doing such things.
Yeah, same. And on my previous bike too (Suzuki Boulevard 800). Go figure...


Ditto. And I use the same technique for all other upshifts (mild upward toe pressure to "preload" while pulling the clutch in smoothly, but not all the way, until you snick it in). You also get the pleasurable feeling of "doing it right" in the mechanical interaction, much like a perfect heel-toe technique in a sports car while shifting and braking.
 
#8 ·
"...much like a perfect heel-toe technique in a sports car while shifting and braking."

Or double-clutching in an old truck :) You're right - the pleasure of "doing it right" by the bike (mechanical empathy) is superb. That's what I try to do with every action on every ride. Great feeling. And good for your bike's longevity no doubt!
 
#11 ·
FWIW….I finally settled on the simultaneous clutch pull, flick of the throttle, gear change…. ie exactly as I do it in all the other upshifts. For some reason I was treating first to second differently. The only condition though is to do it soon after taking off…ie low revs, low ground speed. Achieving the same at high revs / high ground speed in first….now that's still a work in progress :)
 
#13 ·
Yeah I think I have done 3 changes now will much more expensive synthetic and probably more on the Honda recommended stuff before that and I won't go back. I don't know about all the stuff that actually goes on in there but to me if it is shifting noticeably better at the end of its life then it is worth the money.
 
#20 ·
It's back. Parked my Val for a week and my clutch engages about an inch from the grip. Throws off my shift timing and I can feel it shift into gear hard sometimes. I'm taking it to another dealer Tuesday. Maybe they have a mechanic that doesn't......
See no,
Hear no,
Speak.....
I'm going to make Honda fix it even if I have to pay.
 
#21 ·
I like the clutch on my Valk. Was a bit concerned after driving other makes with hydraulic clutch actuation since there is no adjustment. No need to worry, works as well or better than all the cable clutches I've had. Bleed the clutch and brakes at 14,000 miles. Will do it again bu 30,000 or less depending on the season.
 
#25 ·
My CTX and 96 GWing both have hydraulic clutches that work perfectly. The Val came with a clutch that was not disengaging enough. Misstime your shift and you are basically shifting without a clutch. Damage your trany and no warranty coverage due to abuse.
 
#22 ·
1st gear is really short and must be for trailers , stump pulling and such .
i normally shift out at about 12 MPH as it just gets me rolling before i am done with it.
around the harley guys i just use 2nd and they think this thing has a monster 1st gear like my hayabusa which is good to 70 MPH
 
#23 ·
Last month, the owner warned me on my first test ride about the clutch. It stilled jerked because it engages so soon. I assumed this was something I'd need to get used to. I bought it.

Gotten used to it but still too short a time when 1st gear engages. I still have some shifting issues sometimes such as going from neutral to first and not engaging. Shifting down to 4th and not easily engaging. I chalk this up to not enough foot force.

This machine is overall easy to operate but has its quirks as every bike does.

I've purposely started off in 2nd and it seamlessly takes off which makes me wonder why this isn't just a stinking 4 speed.

I grin a good bit for what the valky can do but do miss my loud pipes when taking off or passing an iphone driver.
 
#24 ·
Last month, the owner warned me on my first test ride about the clutch. It stilled jerked because it engages so soon. I assumed this was something I'd need to get used to. I bought it.
If your clutch engages to soon you have the same problem. I called another Honda dealer and had to leave a message. They did not even return my call. It's going to really p. me off if I have to fix this. Some warranty.
 
#29 ·
Hello Forum:

I'm a new member who just purchased a 2014 Valkyrie. I love that bike!!

I was'nt sure where to ask this question and since this thread was referencing shifting I thought this could be the right place. My shifter pedal is almost lined up evenly with my left peg. It makes it a little difficult for me to get my size 13 foot under it. I spoke with my dealer and asked him about raising the shifter lever a bit and he told me that he could only raise it by 1/2". Is that possible? I was under the impression that the shift lever was on a sprocket and as such the lever hardware could be loosened a bit and then raised to an appropriate height. Has anyone been able to raise their shifter lever higher then 1/2"? Has anyone completely changed their shifter lever? If so what are you using?

I would also like to raise my rear brake lever a bit and make my rear brake pad a bit larger. I have been researching the Kuryakyn Trident Wide Brake Pedal with Arm. That brake pedal pad is an inch wider than the stock brake pedal pad and that arm, according to Kuryakyn, is height adjustable. I read somewhere that the Trident collection has both a brake lever and shift lever in it. If anyone is familiar with that collection please educate me.

Any help or information is greatly appreciated.

Thank You Forum,

Steve18643
 
#33 · (Edited)
So I let my cousin ride my Valk and as he rode by he shifted into second gear with an audible clunk that I had not heard before. After discussing it with him and paying close attention to his hands as he rides, I believe I have figured out what might be causing your clunk.

You are probably letting off the throttle too much or taking too long to shift one you have let of the throttle.

A lot of people almost fully release the throttle when shifting. This is not necessary at all. All you have to do is release the tension on the gears. Just rolling back your throttle the slightest amount is more than enough to shift. And you should be shifting just as soon as the rpms begin to drop. When I shift, my throttle hand barely moves and I try my best to minimize the amount of time the entire shifting process takes.

The longer you wait, or the lower you let your rpms drop before shifting, the harder your clunk will be.
 
#34 ·
It took me a while to get used to shifting. The clutch engages earlier than others I've owned. Finally got used to clutch but then every so often, especially going downhill, shifting from 5 to 4, it wants to pop back in 5. I often knock it into neutral at stoplights and sometimes don't tromp it into 1st hard enough when light changes and it pops back into neutral.

I don't care or worry about any clunking because sometimes my shifting is spot on and effortless then other times I'm jerking it a little. With this being such a quiet bike, I notice many more sounds such as the new dunflops I just put on and a whistling around or near right of rear tire.

I chalk it up as idiosyncrasies of the valky. I used to have a kawai that sounded like a sewing machine and lots of guys complained but it was nature of the bike.

I have just now noticed there is a particular whirring when in 4th so now will use this queue when not sure if I made it to 5th yet.

Lord help me if this was an automatic. I'd be bored to tears... >:D
 
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