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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The front sidecover grommets are real thin and are easily pushed out of their location. (Ask me how I know!)

They are also pretty expensive!

But, I found a nice cheap alternative and because of the larger flange they have they stay in position better!

 

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Je suis de France et la traduction est mauvaise : C'est quoi "Les oeillets de couvercle lateral avant"
Merci Xyzzy
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Le joint en caoutchouc pour l'avant de chaque panneau latéral?

(I'm using Google to translate so I hope I have it right!)

In the picture below the OEM grommet is not attached and the "upgrade" grommet is in the right position. Note how the "upgrade" grommet has a larger outside flange. It will not easily push through when you put the side cover on, and if it pulls off by accident when you remove the side cover, it is easy to work with because it will be stuck to the side cover instead of being lost somewhere in the engine area.



One other thing about the side cover: the right side cover, when you pull it off, pulls the lower rear "grommet" out so far it catches on the "toolbox/owner manual storage area" door. The grommet is stronger than the plastic it sits in so the plastic bends quite a bit.
 

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Desole, j'utilise aussi Google pour traduire et c'est pas facile.

Merci pour votre reponse et pour avoir postee les photos, je vais tenter de trouver ces oeillets sinon je les collerai avec un peu de colle sillicone.

Autre chose, sur la poutre du cadre nos F6C ont une soudure laide dans l'aluminium.
Sur le gold w et le F6B il y a une petite piece qui cache la soudure. Penser vous que cela se monte sur nos motos?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Autre chose, sur la poutre du cadre nos F6C ont une soudure laide dans l'aluminium.
Sur le gold w et le F6B il y a une petite piece qui cache la soudure. Penser vous que cela se monte sur nos motos?
J'ai une Gold Wing en plus de mon Valkyrie. La Gold Wing a bouchons en plastique très fragiles pour couvrir la soudure. Je pense que la soudure a l'air bien. Pour moi, la beauté est dans la fonction de la moto. Les bouchons qui cachent la soudure sur la Gold Wing ne servent à rien d'autre fonction que de dissimuler la soudure. De plus, le robot a fait un très bon travail sur cette soudure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
More grommet madness!

I have had each side cover off maybe 10 times each.

The front grommets, as mentioned earlier, needed replaced almost immediately.

I found that the upper rear grommets needed to be replaced today. They are a different thickness than the front grommets but the non-OEM "oval" replacement shown earlier fits perfectly. (I had to buy a second package of the non-OEM grommets because there are only two oval-shaped gremmets per package.)

The rear upper grommets get pushed in because just like the front grommets, the outside flange is too small and thin.

The rear grommets are held by the rear fender and are very difficult to reach to remove/replace. I had to remove the seat to get better access.

Now, why do they get pushed out in the first place? I wondered the same thing!

After examining the fit of the side panel I noticed that it is very very difficult to align all three grommets/pins AT THE SAME TIME and push the side cover on. That is because they do not match! (Perhaps on purpose, because that does cause the side cover to fit quite snugly.)

I found the following process to work 100% of the time, with the seat on. (In fact, it might work with the original grommets!)

1) Push in the lower pin/grommet.
2) Rotate the front of the side cover up a few degrees (from where it should insert) and insert the rear pin/grommet.
3) Rotate the front of the side cover down a few degrees (back to the original position or slightly lower) and insert the front pin/grommet.

Yeah, this thread is a lot of talk about a simple set of grommets, which seems ridiculous.

But, if this is the worst issue we have to deal with on this bike we have it made!

BTW, the right side cover fits near flush with the frame. The left side cover has an open area at the bottom. If you run a battery tender pigtail to the left side cover area you can pop the bottom pin/grommet loose, grab the pigtail and charge the battery. When you are done, you can pop the lower pin/grommet closed and tuck the pigtail up in that open space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BTW, the right side cover fits near flush with the frame. The left side cover has an open area at the bottom. If you run a battery tender pigtail to the left side cover area you can pop the bottom pin/grommet loose, grab the pigtail and charge the battery. When you are done, you can pop the lower pin/grommet closed and tuck the pigtail up in that open space.
Here is a picture of the battery tender routing. Note that the positive battery terminal is covered and that there is an inline fuse.

 

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add some silicone grease to the inside of the panel hole where the panel mounting tab pushes through the rubber.

The rubber is very grippy, u only need a very small amount and want to remove the excess.

Just the smallest amount on a Q-tip wipe it on and with a dry one get the excess off, as you want to make the panels go on without pushing the grommet out of the frame mount, and at the same time, want enough grip not to lose the panel while on a ride, do to wind pulling the panel off.
 

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What is the High Low adjustment knob, in the picture?

Is that a pre-load for rear mono shock?

Here is a picture of the battery tender routing. Note that the positive battery terminal is covered and that there is an inline fuse.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What is the High Low adjustment knob, in the picture?

Is that a pre-load for rear mono shock?
Yes. From the factory the ride is superb so I have never messed with it.

A bit off topic:

It is too bad that Honda has a contract with Helm to do owner's manuals, because one thing I would like to be able to do is read the owner's manual before I buy a bike. Since they have a contract with Helm to print the manual, there are no PDF manuals. There are a lot of things Honda does right but I think they dropped the ball on this.

For example, several Hondas I have owned have had 600 mile service intervals, including a valve clearance check. That is a lot of $$$ right off the bat, unless you do it yourself. The sales guy never mentions this stuff because he probably doesn't know!

(The first service interval for the Valkyrie is 4,000 miles and the valves are checked at 32,000 miles.)
 

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So first valve check is at 32k miles?
Is that right?

What does the first 4K mile service entail?

Is it just Oil, and Oil filter?

I like first Oil change to be at 600 Miles, as I have had new Hondas and was surprised how much metal is in the OIL on the first oil change.

I like to get that metal out asap!

Last new Honda is a 2012' NC700X, a considerable amount of metal at first Oil change.

Bike runs great very smooth.

Everyone on that bikes forum had the same amount of metal in the oil and Oil filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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