Question re: clutch wear and the "friction zone"

multi plate wet (oil immersed) clutches are what you find in most transverse motor engine / cycles, aka belt & chain driven. this style multi clutch plates in a basket can take more abuse than a dual plate dry clutch
Our model Honda the motor crank is Inline with the frame same as MotoGuzzi and BMW boxers. utilized dual dry plate disc automotive style. they are less forgiving for abuse. But either system is prone to early wear from abuse. I don't know what these Hondas use, my guess is wet plate multi disc, just from looking at the transmission section of this motor.


Your MC instructional videos are teaching you how to manage your energy and control of your bike under extreme riding conditions and have Nothing to do with making things last longer as your dad taught you.. If you really wanted to do that, then don't ride your bike on the edge of control where you need to be doing things to the clutch the motor and the brakes amount to abusing its components.
If you want to ride like a Race Rocketeer, well pony up the price for wearing out your pony early in its life.. You don't have to ride like grandma on her way to church either. there is a balance in riding and life. either way you pay for what you choose to do. poncho


using the clutch at slow speed to control your energy vs using the throttle is just another way to maintain control. why not just learn to use the throttle properly? I understand that we all have to feather the clutch from stop and at the slowest of speeds when where the throttle is not responsive. my advice, don't ride at that speed more than you have to.

I probably didn't make my question clear enough, Poncho, and I appreciate your feedback. I'm not talking about clutch feathering at extreme speeds or riding like you suggest, Rocketman-style. Like you said in your third paragraph, "at slow speeds, it's just another way to maintain control". I get that, and that's exactly the situation I referred to in my original question. I'm only talking about a situation where, for example, I have to make a tight U-turn in the narrow width available to me. Then, I use the "friction-zone", clutch-feathering I was talking about for more control, which is what the videos are trying to teach to newbies. That's not my question. I just wondered if bikes can maybe better handle this kind of clutch "abuse" that I don't give to cars/trucks; or not. I didn't know if bike clutches were made in a completely different manner than cars. Which I suppose they are, based on your explanation about clutch baskets, although I still don't know if that even applies to a '14 Valk. Anyway, not losing any sleep over it. Just curious. Thanks again!