[Joflewbyu2]

Since the owner's manual stated 300 mile breakin, I decided to do a oil and filter change at that interval instead of the 4k. Bought K&N motorcycle oil filters and a case of Honda 10W30 full synthetic for this and future changes. Before going into not using synthetic early please be aware of the different oil classifications (Hydrocracked - 3, POA - 4 and Ester - 5) and each base stock advantage / disadvantage before spewing opinions. That is a whole other thread. This thread was posted to let others know how simple the change is. No lower fairing needs to be removed. Just ride for 15-20 minutes to warm and circulate oil and park in neutral on kickstand. Place drain pan below and use 17mm box wrench to losen drain plug which faces forward on lower bottom left side under bike. Remove by hand and drain oil. Pull dip stick for ventilation and faster draining. Unscrew filter and drain. Fill new filter slightly with oil and roll oil around to wet and moisten the filter pleats and gasket. Install and hand tighten 3/4 turn after gasket contact. Install new crush washer on drain plug and tighten snug. Pour 4 quarts in and you are ready to go. If you stop in gear, you won't get an accurate oil level reading. Must be in neutral and idle for 2-3 minutes and then let sit 3-5 minutes. Pull dipstick wipe clean and insert to seat but not screwed in to get correct reading. My drain pan has markings so I see 4 quarts out and install 4 in.

 

[buzzard]

nice write up.
Approaching my first oil/filter change, good to know this is a simple job.

 

[postoak]

Thanks, I didn't receive the Owners Manual with my bike and was wondering about the procedure for checking the oil level. Just like the previous Honda I owned, then.

 

[Sleepngbear]

Thanks, I didn't receive the Owners Manual with my bike and was wondering about the procedure for checking the oil level. Just like the previous Honda I owned, then.

I did get a manual, but I didn't see any mention of a break-in period -- and I looked for that specifically. Only the first oil and filter change at 4k. I am planning on doing it much sooner than that, but not quite 300 miles soon. I thought these engines got hammered on pretty good at the factory, as in off the assembly line and straight onto the dyno, but I could be mistaken. I do want this one to last, so I want to be sure it's getting the best early-mile care possible.

 

[headpeon]

I did get a manual, but I didn't see any mention of a break-in period -- and I looked for that specifically. Only the first oil and filter change at 4k. I am planning on doing it much sooner than that, but not quite 300 miles soon. I thought these engines got hammered on pretty good at the factory, as in off the assembly line and straight onto the dyno, but I could be mistaken. I do want this one to last, so I want to be sure it's getting the best early-mile care possible.

I'm like you Bear, I didn't see anything in the manual about break-in period. I changed mine at 2k instead of waiting until 4k and used Rotella 10w30 blend.

 

[Antonio Schiano]

I waited as long as I could to change the oil. I made it to 3,00 miles and changed with Honda full synthetic.
On new vehicles I used to swap oil surely too frequently until the first actual maintenance marker, then at normal intervals. However, I read that the oil supplied at factory build isn't traditional oil but has additives made specifically for break-in. I think it's best to leave that in there a little longer then 600 miles. . ......

 

[Buster]

Wish I'd have paid more attention to this thread before doing my first oil change (the bike's 2nd). I followed instructions in the manual and removed the plastic cowl front cover, it was a ROYAL pain to get back, and once I finished I looked at it and realized, there was no freaking reason to remove it as the manual directed!!! Then spoke with a friend who has F6B and he agreed and never removes the cowl. Guessing Honda is just discouraging people from doing it themselves, supporting their dealerships. Can't think of any other reason for this B.S.

I hate all of the plastic parts and plastic pins. Are metal bolts THAT expensive? Sheesh.

The rest of the bike is an engineering marvel though.

 

[shrubbo]

Couple of things I noticed and maybe this has been mentioned above and if so, now mentioned twice

To get oil pressure up after a service without starting the engine. Throttle to MAX and hold it there, crank engine until the oil light goes out. It won't start.

I have an plate installed to protect the stuff under there. Especially the water bottle which road debris will destroy the heat shield with time.

I am not sure if photobucket links anymore but I will give it a go.

This is the back end covering the water bottle. Notice the damage too it and happy the water bottle didn't have to deal with that by itself.


This is the front end. That should be flat. These 2 bolts come out and that drops the front section of the plate off for oil changes. No big deal.



I felt kind of ripped off when I paid around $100au for that and it is just a really thin and flimsy bit of metal.

Worth it.

 

[George63]

great deal on oil filters on closeout .75 $ :

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Supertech-St6607-Oil-Filter/52730889

the new ones changed from white to blue color

 

[George63]

, there was no freaking reason to remove it as the manual directed!!! Then spoke with a friend who has F6B and he agreed and never removes the cowl. .

looks like it would depend on which filter wrench type you are using

 

[BobMoe]

I got a nice 64mm wrench at Walmart. The oil looked so good I only changed the filter at 2k. I had to use a 65mm on the Frame for future reference. The third pic shows OEM, Super Tech, & Fram long filter

 

[BobMoe]

I got a nice 64mm wrench at Walmart. The oil looked so good I only changed the filter at 2k. I had to use a 65mm on the Frame for future reference. The third pic shows OEM, Super Tech, & Fram long filter

That was Fram not Frame. **** spell check. Almost did it again. Had to press on the 65/67mm cup to get it to grip the Fram filter.

 

[bdfpc]

which filter is best? and which oil? I bought my bike with 5k miles on it. Claimed to have just changed the oil but who knows for sure so I want to change it myself soon...

 

[BobMoe]

I would start here:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/309756/1
Interesting and adds to the confusion. There are a hundred posts on oil and filter. I had heard good things about Super Tech. But, after the comparison, I think I would rather use one with more intake holes. I plan to cut open the three I have for a comparison.

 

[BobMoe]

I made a filter cutter.

 

[BobMoe]

which filter is best? and which oil? I bought my bike with 5k miles on it. Claimed to have just changed the oil but who knows for sure so I want to change it myself soon...

There are a lot of opinions. Mine is: only use nonresource conserving oil. I use pure dino for my first oil change. Honda HPN4 to ensure engine break-in. Then: Mobile1,Rotella t5 t6, amsoil, etc. I like 10w30 cold, 1040hot climate. I think 15w40+ will contribute to oil bypass of the filter.
I like a filter with synthetic material, metal ends, 25 micron and bottom bypass (thread end). Champ ph2867/2876 $1.44 @ Rockauto
I'll probably select the oil by the smoothest shift.

 

[BobMoe]

Wix is the only bottom bypass I found. Paper filters should be replaced every year.

 

[Mahaflac]

thanks for all the info

 

[britman]

Some positive Super Tech info here from an oil analysis.

Cheap Oil Filters

Cheap Oil Filters

www.valkyrieforum.com

 

[Motorhommie]

Since the owner's manual stated 300 mile breakin, I decided to do a oil and filter change at that interval instead of the 4k. Bought K&N motorcycle oil filters and a case of Honda 10W30 full synthetic for this and future changes. Before going into not using synthetic early please be aware of the different oil classifications (Hydrocracked - 3, POA - 4 and Ester - 5) and each base stock advantage / disadvantage before spewing opinions. That is a whole other thread. This thread was posted to let others know how simple the change is. No lower fairing needs to be removed. Just ride for 15-20 minutes to warm and circulate oil and park in neutral on kickstand. Place drain pan below and use 17mm box wrench to losen drain plug which faces forward on lower bottom left side under bike. Remove by hand and drain oil. Pull dip stick for ventilation and faster draining. Unscrew filter and drain. Fill new filter slightly with oil and roll oil around to wet and moisten the filter pleats and gasket. Install and hand tighten 3/4 turn after gasket contact. Install new crush washer on drain plug and tighten snug. Pour 4 quarts in and you are ready to go. If you stop in gear, you won't get an accurate oil level reading. Must be in neutral and idle for 2-3 minutes and then let sit 3-5 minutes. Pull dipstick wipe clean and insert to seat but not screwed in to get correct reading. My drain pan has markings so I see 4 quarts out and install 4 in.

Can these Val’s have their oil changed while just on the side stand?