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Bought a new pair of Daytona boots. Great boots, but the toe shifter area is usually tall and inflexible. Having to make a concerted effort to slide the boot underneath the shifter to upshift. Would like to move the shifter 1/2 an inch higher if possible. Please let me know if you know of any way to accomplish an adjustment up.
 

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I had an old heel-toe shifter off of a 1996 or 2001 GW. I had it sandblasted and powder coated by a local shop. He quotes three prices: do it today; do it next week; and, do it when I have time. I chose the last one and it was $90.
 

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I do not know. There are four pieces: the base, the rocker arm, the heel pedal, and the toe pedal. The chrome must be removed. The pieces must be smoothed by sandblasting. They must be powder coated, and I asked if they would use a hardening agent on the toe pedal and heel pedals coatings. The "do it now" price was $270, so I thought it sounded fair, or maybe not.
 

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New to Valkyrie and find it really uncomfortable. I'm 6 ft tall with size 13 boots and find the shifting process unbearable. I see lower pegs or boards are available, along with heel toe shifters. Any experience with these? Any recommendations? It appears Honda doesn't address the issue...only aftermarket solutions are available.
 

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$90 to powder coat a heel shifter? That seems excessively high.
I had the two silver passenger hand grips (on my black '14) powder-coated matte black locally for $40 (for the pair). As Troy stated, itemizing the various pieces and the prep-work necessary to de-chrome the shifter, THAT's where you're spending your money.

I have four completely different styles of riding boots that I choose from, based on a number of factors on any given day. Like the OP, I have one pair with the toe area much thicker/"higher" than the other three. Gave up trying to use that pair with this bike. Not worth the aggravation, concentration, and missed shifts.
 

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Like the OP, I have one pair with the toe area much thicker/"higher" than the other three. Gave up trying to use that pair with this bike. Not worth the aggravation, concentration, and missed shifts.
Same. Low profile boots only (for me) on this bike. And you get used to shifting a bit more with the side of the boot, not "toes under" so much. Never think about it now.
 

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On the 1500 Valkyrie, the shifter shaft was accessible and I loosened the pinch bolt to adjust the shift lever a spline or two. I think the same is possible with the removal of plastic on the 1800 Valkyrie. When the weather allows I hope to find out. I would also like to adjust the rear brake lever/pedal higher too.

Hopefully, more knowledgeable people will respond.
 

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I do not know. There are four pieces: the base, the rocker arm, the heel pedal, and the toe pedal. The chrome must be removed. The pieces must be smoothed by sandblasting. They must be powder coated, and I asked if they would use a hardening agent on the toe pedal and heel pedals coatings. The "do it now" price was $270, so I thought it sounded fair, or maybe not.
Seems very reasonable to me (the 3rd option).
 

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On the 1500 Valkyrie, the shifter shaft was accessible and I loosened the pinch bolt to adjust the shift lever a spline or two. I think the same is possible with the removal of plastic on the 1800 Valkyrie. When the weather allows I hope to find out. I would also like to adjust the rear brake lever/pedal higher too.
In case anyone else needs this in the future, I tried to do exactly what was mentioned above, spin the splined section over a tooth to lift the shifter a bit, but around the splined section it is VERY restricted in there. I think Honda did it on purpose to make overtravel stops, so stomping on the lever wouldn't mean stomping on the gears. The downside is if you move it over even a single tooth either direction, you wont have access to all the gears.

The better option would be to cut and thread the rod in the red circle with one ended threaded backwards so you could do a turnbuckle style adjustable rod length to move the pedal up or down.


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If you just need to adjust it up a little bit, and you dont mind being a caveman about it, you can see in the blue circle the shift lever actually drops down some at that bend. I took mine off, laid it across some 2x4 scraps on a concrete floor and beat it with a hammer until it was straight. It works perfect for me now.

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