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I was originally going to wait until spring to install the Rostra cruise control, but I got bored last week, and over the Christmas holidays, so I decided to go ahead with the install.
Someone told me that some guys have installed the Rostra on the F6B, and with a little searching I found most of my information needed on the wiring, and dip switch settings thanks to them.
Goldstar903 was also nice enough to send me the wiring diagram for the Valkyrie.

The dip switch setting are:

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
off off on off on on on off off on off off


I had bought a throttle body off a 2007 Goldwing, because they have the cruise control mechanism on the side. I was going to swap it with the one on my Valk, but then I decided to just use the cruise mechanism. You could just fashion up a lever on the side of the throttle, but the Goldwing cruise mechanism is made in such a way that it does not rotate when the throttle is being used. This is nice because you don’t have some loose cable hanging down that could get caught up on something.

The first thing I did was disassemble the Goldwing’s cruise mechanism.

To put the mechanism on the Valk’s throttle body you need to take a 1/4” ‘long’ nut, and tap it out with a M7x1.0 tap. The five corners need to be grounded down a little bit until it will fit into the plastic cylinder of the cruise mechanism. The length of the ‘nut’ needs to be .73” long with one end tapered similar to the spacer on the Goldwing mechanism.

Remove the nut, and lock washer holding on the Valk’s throttle. Put on the pan washer from the other throttle body, and then screw on the ‘long’ nut that you just made leaving the tapered end facing out. Use locktite, and do not over tighten. It is brass threads that you are screwing the nut onto. Reassemble the rest of the cruise mechanism using a M7x1.0x10mm bolt, with locktite, to hold everything in place.

To hook up the Rostra cruise, I welded a 5/16” nut on a small piece of metal which I then bolted onto the factory plate for the cruise. I used a 5/16” bolt, and drilled out a 1/8” hole in the center. I then drilled a 9/32” hole 3/4 of the way down, to hold the rostra cable sheath. I then cut a groove down the side of the bolt, so I could put the cable through. You might also be able to use one off a bicycle, same idea.

I had to make a ‘T’ cable out of a bicycle cable to make a connection from the Rostra cable to the cruise mechanism. The round part had the be sanded down for it to fit in the cruise mechanism.

I put the Rostra cruise module in the only place I could make it fit. The storage box under the seat. I tried the pods, but it wouldn’t fit. Having it in the storage box is actually a perfect place. Close to all the connections, and the cable runs perfect along the right side, around the throttle body, and in through the hole on the left front. This makes the Rostra cable line up perfectly with the throttle lines.


The wiring was not hard, but I took my time to make sure that I didn’t mess anything up. I disconnected the main ground on the battery, so that there was no power at all on the bike.

I didn’t bother hooking up the neutral safety switch. I had it hooked up on my other Valk, but I will not be shifting while the cruise is on anyways, and it is pretty much impossible to put the bike into neutral from fifth gear when cruising.

The Rostra dark blue wire (Tach), and all the ground wires were grounded to the battery, or the bolt beside the main ground block behind the engine. Really easy to find it with the seat off.

The Rostra brown accessory wire was connected to the accessory fuse panel using the supplied thin metal piece, and the supplied 10A inline fuse. It is a flat piece of metal on the brown wire. You take out the 10A accessory fuse from the fuse box, put the metal piece in, and then put the fuse back in.

The Rostra red/brown wire goes to the brown wire on the Rostra switch

The Rostra dark green wire goes to the dark green wire on the Rostra switch

The Rostra yellow wire goes to the yellow wire on the Rostra switch

The red wire from the Rostra switch has a 4A inline fuse, and it goes to the white/green wire located on the right side of the bike at the connector

The Rostra violet wire goes to the green/yellow wire, but because we have LED brake lights. A relay has to be used to increase the ground to disconnect the cruise control. To do this the 86 & 30 terminal are grounded. The 85 terminal goes to the green/yellow wire on bike. The 87A terminal goes to the violet Rostra wire. The 87 terminal is not used.

The Rostra grey wire (VSS) needs to be hooked up to a Rostra signal adapter (250-4379) This divider will divide the signal by 4. The guys on the F6B board figured out that the pulses per mile were about 88750. This is why we put the dip switch setting to 19300. They also determined that a 4.7K ohm resister (1/2 watt) needs to be used between the splitter and the VSS signal wire on the bike. To hook up the splitter, the red wire goes to 12V switched power source. The black wire goes to a ground. The yellow wire goes to the grey wire, and the green wire with the resister attached goes to the white/green VSS wire on the bike. I tapped into the wire right where it goes into the ECM. It is on the left side connector. I cut the sheathing off, and connected my wire to it.

If you get the back lit Rostra switch, you will also have a grey wire, and a black wire. Just connect the grey wire to a switched power source, and the black wire to a ground.


I put mine through the diagnostic, and everything came out fine.

Now, I just have to wait until spring to try it out. I would do it now, but I sent my seat out to Russell get redone. It is still fairly warm (+4C), but without a seat it would not be a comfy ride.

I hope this helps out to those who want to do this.

It took me a few days to figure out how to hook up the cruise mechanism to the rostra cable, and fashion the parts, and a couple of days to tear down the bike, hook up the Rostra cable, do the wiring, and put the bike back together. Also, a few trips to the hardware store. All wires were soldered when the diagnostic was good.
 

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How did this install turn out? I have done these Rostra units on other bikes. The only hard part is to determine the VSS output of the particular bike you are on.
I know you followed the dip switch settings of the other guys, but I was curious if they told you the VSS output.
 
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