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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I parked my 2014 Valk the other day. It was running well and no signs of any issues. It only has 7800 miles on it. Anyway, I went out to start it the other morning (garage kept, Florida bike) and while it cranks over it will not start. Seems almost like a fuel delivery issue.

It has 3 bars on the fuel gauge, but it has been a pretty unreliable gauge so I opened the tank, I can't see any gas, but I can hear it sloshing around when I wiggle the bike.

The battery is strong and will keep cranking, just doesn't fire up. Any ideas???
 

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if it turns over it is not any of the 3 lock out switches, Kill switch, Clutch/Neutral switch, Sidestand switch.. So 3 things needed to fire are; fuel , air , spark.. Air is usualy the least concern except on a very old not maintained bike. Fuel, good, bad, not enough or fuel pump failure? spark, well if it turns over you have 'lectricity, you should have spark. this bike is too much trouble to pull covers and check spark plug(s). I suspect go after fuel first. put fuel cleaner (injectors) and a gallon of good fuel in there and see if the pump picks it up.


my 016 scout, if I put it up end of day ride with 1/2gal fuel left in it, often wont start the next day. either residual motor heat and pressure has reduced the fuel and/or the fuel pump wont prime itself with that little fuel left in the tank.
 

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Does the engine crank up when the kill switch is off or otherwise compromised? I don't use it either.
It isn't the kill switch. I have issues with mine even in the off position. The fuel pump doesn't turn on and it doesn't even try to start. Pressing the ignition has no effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I added fuel. Moved the bike around a bit and still the same result. The engine cranks but will not start.

I did notice another thing, not sure if it matters, but when trying to start it after hitting the start button twice, the check engine light comes on.

Other than not actually firing up, the bike behaves as normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Which fuses should I check? Other than adding hard bags and a Corbin seat I have never worked on this motorcycle.

And once I get this issue sorted I will probably get rid of this bike.
 

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The fuses are located under the seat. Look at them all to see if anything is blown. Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on. It is pretty loud and you should hear it. If you do, then it is probably the coil.
 

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sometimes a battery charger helps.. if your battery voltage drops below 11.point something, it wont fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have hear the fuel pump (I think...its the loud zzzzzz noise?). I will pull the seat off this weekend and check the fuses...
 

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I have hear the fuel pump (I think...its the loud zzzzzz noise?). I will pull the seat off this weekend and check the fuses...

Yes, that is the fuel pump. So, that is working.


You need 3 things for an engine to run.
1. spark
2. compression
3. gas


It would seem that #2 & 3 are ok. That just leaves #1 . Spark.

I highly doubt that all the plugs are bad. So, the only thing it can be is a blown fuse, the wires to the ignition coils came off, or a coil is bad. There are three coils You will have to take the tank off to see the coils.

You can also take off the covers over the heads to access the spark plugs. Get a spark plug tester to see if there is spark by putting the tester between the spark plug and spark plug wire and cranking the engine. You will see the spark. Check all the plugs on one side. Each plug on one side goes to a different coil. So, all three of the coils can be checked on accessing one side of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So every fuse in the small set if fuses directly under the seat are fine.

I closely watched the dash upon trying to start and I noticed the check engine light comes on, there is a noticeable pause, then it flashes 9 times in quick succession. Does anyone know what code that refers to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dealer was no help. Talked to two service techs. First had no clue about engine codes, second gave standard "we will have to run a diagnostic and see what the problem is and then check with warranty claims to see how they wish to deal with it". I now remember why they call them "Stealerships".

It is sad when you know very little about a bike but still know more than the Honda service tech.
 

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I wonder if our bikes have a low engine oil cut out sensor/switch to prevent engine damage. This would ground out the spark. You could maybe take a look at the oil level. I've had this problem in the past with other things.
 

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Here are the blink codes for the 1800 gold wing. Stolen from another site. Unsure if the same as our Valkyrie but possibly. 9 blinks would be the intake air sensor.

This has been posted a few times, so I thought I would put it somewhere where it can be easily found.

If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms .Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch


55 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• A/F sensor HIC (Hybrid Integrated Circuit) malfunction
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks! No if I can figure out what

9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor

This all means and how to rectify it!
 
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