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Handlebars

8392 Views 19 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  turboyoshi
Any suggestions for a good handlebar that will bring the controls back to me? I've used rox risers, but would rather just upgrade the bar so I don't need to mess with the dash on the bike. I just want to put myself in a comfortable position for long distance riding.
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I looked everywhere for a set of bars to fit our bikes. I looked for about 2 months on pretty much every handlebar maker out there. The problem is with the tank bezel. If you put on regular bars they will hit the bezel when the bars are turned all the way. That is why I made my own with an arc on them. You could probably do a set of ROX risers and regular bars, but you still have to put on longer throttle cables, brake and clutch lines, plus lengthen the wiring.



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Agent Franks,



I have another set bars that I made for my bike. I have two of them actually. I have a set out of 1" bar and another that I made out of 1-1/4" bar. They bring the grips about 6-7" closer to you. I can show you a picture of them beside the OEM bars if you like. The shipping to the States is pretty expensive, though. Last time I checked it was about $80 USD because of the size of them.
Message sent

I never got your message. I have a buddy who might want the 1-1/4" bars for his bike. We are going to put them on next week to see if he likes them. If not, then they will be back up for sale to anyone who wants them.
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Does anyone think a set of mini ape hangers might work for what I'm looking for?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Vintage-...TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.X1"+motorcycle+handlebar.TRS0
If you go apes don't do a bar off ebay unless you have excellent life insurance . Using a cheap steel bar to turn a 750lbs bike just doesn't sound like it would end well.
I would suggest a bar like Biltwell or such and have the bar sleeved where you need it thicker in the control clamps.
If you keep the bars up high like that you won't have a problem. If you bring the grips down, then the bars will hit the gas tank bezel when they are fully cranked.

I agree with Rich, buy some good bars.
Has anyone, looking at you bscrive, done the measurements for the stock handlebars? I've looked, but I cant find numbers for rise, pullback, etc. All I know is the stock bars are 1", but when looking for a replacement, it would be nice to know what the current rise (height) and pullback are. These guys have a pretty good list, but don't include the 2014 Valkyrie. http://www.sideroadcycles.com/AmericanMotorcycles/Handlebars/Stock_Bars.html
Here are your specs for the bars.

Knurl: 5-1/4" (outside to outside)
Centre Width: 7" (inside)
End Rise: 12"
Height: 8"
Pullback: 5"
Overall Width: 32-7/8"

The bars I made have a much less end rise/height ratio than the OEM bars. The OEM bars are made weird.
I misspoke above. The end rise/height ratio is pretty much the same as the OEM bars. It is the pullback that is greater on my custom bars for better ergonomics.

My 1-1/2" custom bars are:

Knurl: didn't knurl them
Inside Centre Width: 9-1/2" overall, 7" for 1" bar
End Rise: 20"
Height: 15-1/2"
Pullback: 8-1/2"
Overall Width: 33"
I misspoke above. The end rise/height ratio is pretty much the same as the OEM bars. It is the pullback that is greater on my custom bars for better ergonomics.

My 1-1/2" custom bars are:

Knurl: didn't knurl them
Inside Centre Width: 9-1/2" overall, 7" for 1" bar
End Rise: 20"
Height: 15-1/2"
Pullback: 8-1/2"
Overall Width: 33"
Did your buddy want to keep the handlebars?

I need to find a solution for my bike.
I just want to put myself in a comfortable position for long distance riding.
I've changed my view on this. I was getting low back problems on longer rides and found that the key is to have your lower spine arched inwards not slumped out. When I do this it puts me in a slight lean forward and the stock bars are comfortably within reach. I find I can ride a long time like this with no back pain.
I've changed my view on this. I was getting low back problems on longer rides and found that the key is to have your lower spine arched inwards not slumped out. When I do this it puts me in a slight lean forward and the stock bars are comfortably within reach. I find I can ride a long time like this with no back pain.

I discovered this years ago. Riding sport bikes I never had a sore back but did have arm or wrist fatigue from the weight that was on my hands. When I got my 2000 Valk I found I needed to focus on sitting up straight with lower back tilted forward because if I slouched my back got sore quickly.
Did your buddy want to keep the handlebars?

I need to find a solution for my bike.



Nope, he decided to go with chrome bars, so if you want them they are yours.
I'll send you a message.
I looked everywhere for a set of bars to fit our bikes. I looked for about 2 months on pretty much every handlebar maker out there. The problem is with the tank bezel. If you put on regular bars they will hit the bezel when the bars are turned all the way. That is why I made my own with an arc on them. You could probably do a set of ROX risers and regular bars, but you still have to put on longer throttle cables, brake and clutch lines, plus lengthen the wiring.
Revisiting this topic because I'm in a position where I have to change out my handlebars anyway....
Do you think these handlebars will work? flanders bars It seems really difficult to compare even knowing the measurements , how can I tell how much more pullback this would give me before putting them on the bike?
Just comparing the OEM specification with the Flanders, it looks to me that the 0601-0161 (narrow center) bar might be a better fit. I like the idea of chrome handlebars. On one of the Valkyrie forums, it was reported that the 1500 Valkyrie handlebars worked well on the 1800 Valkyrie but I have no direct experience with the swap.
Just comparing the OEM specification with the Flanders, it looks to me that the 0601-0161 (narrow center) bar might be a better fit. I like the idea of chrome handlebars. On one of the Valkyrie forums, it was reported that the 1500 Valkyrie handlebars worked well on the 1800 Valkyrie but I have no direct experience with the swap.
Yeah I saw that one too, and wasn't sure if it would be too narrow with only 6" center. It has slightly more rise and slightly less pullback, if only there was a good way to model this on a pc so we could know how it would look. I never thought to look at the 1500 Valk bars, I'll look into that too. Thanks.
I checked out the link posted earlier that had bar measurements for multiple bikes, and just comparing info to what bscrive posted, wouldn't this one give me exactly what I want?
FLDDyna Switchback2012 - 20131"8"32"10"7"2-1/2" x 4-1/2"

it has the same height, width, slightly shorter overall length and about 5" more pullback. I don't know what end rise measurement is or how that would change things , just wondering if I'm being too simplistic. Anyone have ideas?
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