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Discussion Starter #1
The standard foot pegs have small acorn nuts on them that grind before the peg does. I've found that the small acorn nut wears out really fast!

So I decided to see if there was a better nut to put on the peg, or something like that.

On another forum I saw a link to these peg nuts: http://pepsx.com/products.html

I have previously ordered a stand for my VTX from this company so I know that produce quality stuff.

I'm not sure I can justify the price of the titanium ones even though sparks would be very cool.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?301639-Review-on-Titanium-peg-savers

http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthr...ol-footpegs!&p=3619435&viewfull=1#post3619435

I don't drag the pegs purposely but they do drag at least once per ride, mostly the left peg. I am also getting pretty good at doing third gear idle circles (see video below) but I haven't dragged doing that, yet.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1r63cFXUXQ

(That is not me in the video!)

Very long and very interesting forum thread: http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?329608-SLOW-speed-control-and-Tighter-turning
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So, I ordered the steel version ($40) and they arrived, so here are a few notes and pictures of the installation process.



I scanned the instructions and uploaded them here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8230728/f6c-footpeg-instructions.pdf



I removed the footpegs from the bike. I took off the whole plate because I figured it would be easier to deal with the springs and cotter pins at my workbench. (My workbench is the kitchen counter! Don't tell my wife!)

I have already replaced the acorn nuts on the pegs about 1,000 miles ago. My current set has maybe 5 drags on the left side and 2 or 3 on the right side. I don't drag the pegs very often, but when I do it is usually at 50-60MPH so the acorn nuts wear down fast. I'm not sure how much room there is between dragging the acorn nuts and hitting something big, like the engine guards or the frame, but I do feel the pegs fold up quite a bit so I think there is a safety margin built in. If you have never dragged a peg before it can scare you because it is noisy and your foot moves. I had read about it long before I first did it (on a different bike) and it still took me by surprise. Now, it doesn't bother me at all, except worrying that I will ruin the actual footpeg if the acorn wears through. I have been purposely holding back a bit on my fast turns because of this worry so hopefully the new parts will allow me to drag the pegs more with less worry.

Here is a picture of the "stock" acorn. This one has 2 or 3 slight grinds on it. It doesn't look that bad because I have been taking it easy on the turns after I discovered the previous set had worn out so much.



The footpeg on the full-size Gold Wing is identical to the Valkyrie except the plate is silver colored and the acorn is by itself. On the Valkyrie, the acorn has a spacer (and a longer shank) because the ground clearance on the Valkyrie is higher. Here is a picture of the "official" parts page with both pegs side by side:



The new "acorn nut" is huge compared to the stock one. Here is a picture of one of the new ones on my scale. It weighs over four ounces!



You have to strip the foot peg down to just the aluminum plate. The rubber part that your foot rests on comes off with an 8mm socket. The bolt has some threadlock on it which helps it stay in even if there is vibration present. The stock acorn nut comes off with a 10mm socket. You have to drill a hole in the plate for the new puck. I used a very nice drill press to do this, with a very slow feed speed, and the hole came out perfect. I used a 5/16" bit and that is a slight press fit for the bolt that comes with the puck. You might be able to drill this hole with a handheld drill but the drill press made it so easy I didn't even bother trying a different method. Plus, the aluminum plate is very expensive if you have to replace it due to ruining it. Here is a picture of the aluminum plate with the hole drilled in it:



The puck attaches from the inside of the aluminum plate and also through the hole that the stock acorn nut was attached to. I used blue threadlock on both bolts even though the instructions only call for it on the larger bolt. In this next picture you can kinda see the big bolt (from the bottom) on the far right, the acorn nut bolt in the middle and the open hole on the left is where the rubber plate attaches. You tighten down the large bolt first and then snug in the acorn nut bolt.



The puck covers up part of the rubber that wraps around the end of the footpeg. I used a very sharp carpet knife to cut out the rubber around the puck, using the puck as a template. This is what the rubber part looks like after it has been cut.



After you cut the rubber end you put it back on the footpeg. The interface between the puck and the footpeg is very solid. It looks like it might not be, because there is a gap under the part of the puck that attaches to the acorn nut bolt, but believe me, it is on there good. I think it really helps to have the hole you drill be exactly 5/16" because this eliminates any slop that could occur. Here is a side view of what the completed footpeg looks like.



This next picture is my attempt to show the difference between the stock acorn nut and the new puck. The new puck is slightly lower than the stock acorn nut. I am really bad at taking pictures. It looks like there is some parallax error in this picture but in real life that is how much of a difference there is.



*** I do not know if this decreased distance will cause the bike to hit hard parts, like the engine guards or the frame, before it hits the pucks. ***



I suspect everything will be fine. Either way I will post my findings, hopefully not from a hospital room!



This next picture show a little hole that is drilled in the footpeg plate, which attaches to the frame. The spring has one end that is straight that fits into this hole. If you assemble the footpeg and spring properly, it is a very easy task to drive the pivot pin into the plate. Before I noticed the hole I was killing myself trying to get the spring attached right. The service manual does not cover this at all. In hindsight, it is real obvious, but most things are!



Once the pivot pin is pushed through, you put on the end washer and then the cotter pin. I reused the cotter pins even though you are supposed to replace them if you ever remove them. This is a very low load situation and the pins are pretty strong. For legal purposes (?) I recommend using new pins. (But I reused mine.) They are very easy to bend back into position with a pair of needle nose pliers and there is no reason why anything should get messed up or destroyed in the process. Just take your time and don't force anything. If I can do it anyone can!



The finished plate bolts to the bike with two bolts at 20 foot-pounds each.

I should have taken more pictures but I am lazy and a lousy photographer.

I hope this gives you an idea of what the installation process is.

I would rank this as an easy task if you are handy with simple tools and you have patience. That brake light modulator I posted a while ago was much more difficult. Half the battle is just visualizing how things are supposed to look.

I promise you that using a drill press to drill the hole will save you a lot of grief. I don't own one but I found a friend that did. I'm sure you can find someone, or use this as an excuse to buy one. (My wife didn't fall for that!)

Now, how do I feel about the whole deal?


  • I knew the stock acorn nuts were inadequate for the mission. Not only do they wear out too quickly, the small surface area they present to the road surface causes grinds to be very abrupt.
  • I had a bit of trouble deciding between aluminum, steel or titanium pucks, but in the end, steel won out because it is strong and much cheaper than the titanium version.
  • I received the pucks within a few days of ordering them. The vendor emailed me to let me know what my order status was.
  • Once I realized that I needed a real tool (drill press) I took that route.
  • Since the hole I drilled was perfect, assembly was very easy.
  • Probably the hardest part was putting the spring back in to the plate! (Until I saw the little hole!)
  • They look very cool and substantial. They have a "factory installed" appearance. They do not look like some cheap doo-dad duct-taped to the bike and secured with baling wire.
  • I went for a ride today but I did not take the twisty route. I plan to do so over the next week to see if these touch down, and if/when they do, how they feel. I will report back my findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have about 500 miles with the pucks installed so far.

Until today, I have not had any pucks hit the ground. The new pucks must increase the available lean angle quite a bit. I was starting to worry that the frame or pipes would hit before the pucks!

However, today I scraped the right puck on a tight 25MPH sweeper in my neighborhood. I didn't expect anything to scrape, so I was mildly surprised, but not freaked out. I think part of the reason I was calm is that I have scraped the pegs before and in particular, with these large pucks when you scrape them the scrape is a very smooth scrape. The stock "acorn nuts" feel like they are digging into the pavement but these feel like they are skimming over the pavement.

If I had access to a machine shop I might be tempted to make a set that are 5 or 10mm taller than the ones I installed, just to be extra safe.

They were fairly easy to install and only 40 bucks so I am pretty happy with them overall. The feedback you get through the peg when scraping is much nicer than stock and very smooth.
 
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