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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I want to beat Honda engineers with a large spiked stick.

Different size bolts to hold the lower cowl on. Same stupidity as the plastic on the ST1300.

Then having to remove the EVAP canister. Is it needed or can I leave it off once removed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I found I have an extra horn mounted to the side of the EVAP canister where the hoses enter it.

Back to the garage and on we go.

It's still a darn silly place to put the clutch bleeder.

Anyone ever modified it for easier access?

Once I get access to the bleeder I'm going to see if I can leave a wrench hanging on it and a short piece of hose. EDIT It would mean a wrench clanking around and a hose that might melt. Thankfully I don't have to this for another year or 2.

I'm going to be replacing the OEM with a Speedbleeder. If I ever get to the darn thing.
 

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Just did this Saturday, not too bad. Had the lower cowl off a few times for driving lights so no surprise there. Took out two bolts holding on evap canister ,then loosen left bolt on coolant drain bracket. Swing said bracket downward & have access to bleeder. I too replaced all my bleeders with Speed Bleeders ....... Worth the cost !
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just did this Saturday, not too bad. Had the lower cowl off a few times for driving lights so no surprise there. Took out two bolts holding on evap canister ,then loosen left bolt on coolant drain bracket. Swing said bracket downward & have access to bleeder. I too replaced all my bleeders with Speed Bleeders ....... Worth the cost !
You didn't remove the hose as the manual says to do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Phew. Large across the shoulders and 3xl hands while laying on the floor makes for an unhappy home mechanic.

TOP TIP for others. LOOSEN BOTH OF THE BOLTS(10mm) ABOVE THE EVAP CANISTER BEFORE REMOVING ONE.

Try to grown 2 smaller arms and hands to help get into the fiddly places.

Remove the stay bolt on the right side(looking from the riders position) 8mm

No need to remove the hoses. Once you have the canister swinging free tie it up out of the way.

If fitting a Speed Bleeder do place a rag below the one being removed. Lots of fluid will leak out.' 8mm

Once the Speedbleeder is in flush the fluid as you would normally.

This is as far as I've got because now I'm putting it back together and that's it's own PITA.

I had to walk away due to frustration trying to get the lower cowl and the piece above lined up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No took out left bolt to evap / coolant drain bracket & loosen right bolt & swivel down ....... totally out of way.......
How did you get the right bolt back in.

It's threaded into the stay and then????
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thought I'd better check.

Fired the bike up and engaged 1st gear.

It BANGED into gear!!!!

So before I put it all back together I'm going to flush some more fluid through the clutch. Oh joy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Putting it all back together should be simple and slick.

Shouldn't it????

Now the cowly piece that the top of the lower cowl fits under wont push into place especially the top left corner that has to line up with the hole in the lower cowl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Unfortunately a nights sleep hasn't given me any flashes of inspiration. This is the problem, in part.

The tab on the upper cowl just wont fit into the slot. This of course means that the corresponding holes on the left side of the bike don't line up as well.





I've walked away from it again. Frustrated.
 

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Hello,

I just went through this a few weeks ago when i bled my clutch. I feel your pain.

If I remember correctly, I had the same problem with the upper cowl myself. I got it all back together by leaving the top two corner bolts (left and right) of the "lower cowl" removed and the 2 bolts/4 pins of the upper cowl removed. (2 small plastic upper side pins, 2 larger lower center plastic pins and the two lower corner bolts)

I then got the two upper "hooks" into their slots. Using a small round pointy awl I then gently wiggled and jiggled the upper cowl around until everything was roughly lined up. I got the 2 small plastic upper side pins in, then the 2 larger lower center plastic pins. I used the awl again and got the "lower cowl" upper corner bolts started and then got the 2 lower corner bolts of the "upper cowl" started. I then tightened the four bolts and was done.

I hope that helps. It is a royal PITA, I really sympathize with you.

AJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hello,

I just went through this a few weeks ago when i bled my clutch. I feel your pain.

If I remember correctly, I had the same problem with the upper cowl myself. I got it all back together by leaving the top two corner bolts (left and right) of the "lower cowl" removed and the 2 bolts/4 pins of the upper cowl removed. (2 small plastic upper side pins, 2 larger lower center plastic pins and the two lower corner bolts)

I then got the two upper "hooks" into their slots. Using a small round pointy awl I then gently wiggled and jiggled the upper cowl around until everything was roughly lined up. I got the 2 small plastic upper side pins in, then the 2 larger lower center plastic pins. I used the awl again and got the "lower cowl" upper corner bolts started and then got the 2 lower corner bolts of the "upper cowl" started. I then tightened the four bolts and was done.

I hope that helps. It is a royal PITA, I really sympathize with you.

AJ
Thanks, I'll try that next time. What was strange was I didn't unhook the right side at all.
 

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I wish I had some tips, I struggled with it, put it together loosely attempting to pry the tabs in place with every imaginable makeshift tool I could, then tightening everything down worked. I'm certain plastics would be broken, pins lost by the dealer and one will never know. I watched YouTube videos not specific to our Valkyrie but the GL1800 on a Wing and a F6B. Major PITA, I removed the canister and even then it was still hidden up and behind stuff. and behind the coolant line, like a bad joke. Getting it apart was bad enough, not paying closer attention and taking pictures attempting to reinstall everything was even worse. I will NEVER do this again, I am too old to fuss with this a lying on the ground. I was aircraft rotor wing mechanic in my younger years and this plain sucks. I wonder what this costs at a Honda Dealer and if it would be done without breaking tabs and loosing pins just slapping it together. Perseverance paid off for me, search YouTube for videos. Hang in there, when you get frustrated walk away.
I have faith...you will get it. This should be simple, although on this bike I will gladly pay in the future.

I love the Honda Flat-Six design, sure wish those smart people could have made "service" components serviceable. Just jam everything in there and wrap it in plastic. How about easy access panels with better locations?

One YouTube video shows a Valkyrie 1800 owner who claims his local Honda dealer only charged him $32.00 to do this job. I simply can't believe that o_O
 

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After installing LED fog lights, discovering one was not working properly I've had it apart a few times ........ Trust me it gets much much easier .... With a little finesse the bottom cowl can be removed without fooling with the top. I did just that when I bled my clutch a week ago....... I had a VTX last bike , Hard to get used to all this plastic .......
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I had a ST1300 for 125,000 miles. The plastic was a pa in BUT the air filter access was a thing of beauty..

Undo a bolt at the back of the tank.

Slip tank forward slightly and lift the back just far enough so that the tank rod stand would fit into place.

Remove 8 screws from the top air box cover. Lift cover. Remove filter. Wipe out any debris. Install new filter. Fit top cover.

Lower tank and move it back slightly. Reinsert bolt. DONE!

Maybe 15 minutes.

This same process could have been used on other bikes, ours included.
 

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After installing LED fog lights, discovering one was not working properly I've had it apart a few times ........ Trust me it gets much much easier .... With a little finesse the bottom cowl can be removed without fooling with the top. I did just that when I bled my clutch a week ago....... I had a VTX last bike , Hard to get used to all this plastic .......
That's good to know, I didn't try just the lower thinking it was not possible.

Britman, did you get it wrapped up?
 
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