[Denny Lee]

When I pull in my clutch it makes a "gurgling" sound as though there is an air bubble in the line. It has been that way since I picked it up from the dealer. Does anyone hear a similar sound? If not, could the bike have not been properly set up? Does any one have the manual that you could send me step by step directions to bleed and properly set up the clutch? TIA

 

[goldstar903]

I couldn't get the manual flat against my scanner, so I'm going to write the procedure:

If a brake bleeder is not available, use the following procedure.
Pump the clutch lever until resistance is felt. Connect a bleed hose to the bleed valve and bleed the system as follows:

1. Squeeze the clutch lever, open the bleed valve 1/4 of a turn and then close it.
NOTE: Do not release the clutch lever until the bleed valve has been closed.

2. Release the clutch lever slowly and wait several seconds after it reaches the end of travel.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 until air bubbles do not appear in the bleed hose.

Tighten the bleed valve.
Torque: 6.5 lb-ft
Fill with DOT 4 brake fluid
Torque Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap Screw: 1.1 lb-ft

 

[Denny Lee]

Goldstar
Thanks for the assistance. Where is the bleeder valve located in the clutch system?
Denny

 

[goldstar903]

Oh Boy, it's located on the bottom front of the engine. they recommend removing the bottom front (plastic) engine cover. (see pg. 55 in your owners manual.)
Once the cover is off, remove the Evap Canister, then remove the Coolant Drain Joint. I haven't had to perform this procedure so I can't comment on whether these parts need to be removed or not. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are, you might consider having a Honda tech from where you purchased it have a look. Reattaching the lower cover to the upper cover is a hassle. Very little room. I learned this lesson when I changed my oil. I later read on this forum that removing the cover for an oil change was unnecessary! Thanks Joflewbyu2 for the heads up.
Anyway good luck!