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It's petty easy just remember one side does have left handed threads.
The spring might be the hardest part, I used a coat hanger and fold it into a U and pull.
 

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There is a good thread on here from the past. I will try and link it here:
https://www.f6cforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11506
I found the centerstand and exhaust cover on ebay for $100 delivered, and ordered hardware from Bike Bandits for $60, but could have saved a bunch had I noticed this one message buried in this string, assuming this place still sells at anywhere near that price:

Shawnee Honda (405) 273-1400. They do trike conversions and have the center stands for $50.00 complete with all mounting hardware and spring. $10.00 shipping.
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Otherwise, here's the parts list, (took parts guy about 40 minutes without the numbers) and don't forget the rubber bumper:
$ 25.00 Center stand 50500-MCA-305 Fits 2001 to 2015
$ 15.00 Ship E Bay
$ 52.55 Exhaust Shield 18417-Mca- A20
$ 12.15 Ship E Bay
$ 3.42 Collar L 50355-MS9 -750
$ 4.73 Spacer 50503-MCA-000
$ 4.89 Collar R 50504-MCA-000
$ 5.35 Rubber Stop 50524-MG9- 000
$ 5.56 Spring 50525- MCA-000
$ 4.82 Hook 50538-MCA -000
$ 2.95 Bolt 90601-MCA-000
$ 2.95 Bolt 90602-MCA-000
$ 139.40 Total
 

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I hope the installation goes well. I bought one for my CTX 1300, and everyone said do NOT try this yourself, as it was almost impossible to pull the spring apart far enough without proper tools. Some recommeded putting coins in between the coils to expand them, but even that had issues. Having Honda do that for me was well worth the money and potential bodily injury I might have suffered! Let us know how it goes!


Richmonder
 

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I hope the installation goes well. I bought one for my CTX 1300, and everyone said do NOT try this yourself, as it was almost impossible to pull the spring apart far enough without proper tools. Some recommended putting coins in between the coils to expand them, but even that had issues. Having Honda do that for me was well worth the money and potential bodily injury I might have suffered! Let us know how it goes!


Richmonder
Thanks! I'll let you know. Hardware could take weeks due to COVID, while kickstand and cover will be here Tuesday. The thread has a simple idea that I'd never have thought of myself - use a bent coat hanger as a two-handed spring-puller. Sounds easy enough, except getting those plastic cowlings back on, which I've done once before so I'll save some extra patience for that part and not start the day before some planned ride. One of the few things I dislike about the bike is the plastic parts pushpins and clips, but at least they flex.
 

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I broke a pushpin on the left side cover when I installed the saddlebag. Those things are so fragile. Don't know why they use those instead of better fasteners. I just omitted it when I reinstalled the cover.



Richmonder
 

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I broke a pushpin on the left side cover when I installed the saddlebag. Those things are so fragile. Don't know why they use those instead of better fasteners. I just omitted it when I reinstalled the cover.



Richmonder
Ha! I dropped one inside the cowling so like you, just did without it, figuring maybe the shop would put one in someday when they were doing their thing, and so now I ordered spares.
 

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Thanks! I'll let you know. Hardware could take weeks due to COVID, while kickstand and cover will be here Tuesday. The thread has a simple idea that I'd never have thought of myself - use a bent coat hanger as a two-handed spring-puller. Sounds easy enough, except getting those plastic cowlings back on, which I've done once before so I'll save some extra patience for that part and not start the day before some planned ride. One of the few things I dislike about the bike is the plastic parts pushpins and clips, but at least they flex.
You don't have to take any plastic cowling off and mounting the spring was not that bad.
I think it took less than 30 minutes to do.
 

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You don't have to take any plastic cowling off and mounting the spring was not that bad.
I think it took less than 30 minutes to do.
I know you don't need to remove the cowling to install the kickstand, but are you saying you don't have to take the cowling off to replace the exhaust shield? The thread below says you have to peel back the layers, so to speak, to get at one bolt that holds it on.. Terrific news if there's a way around that while still enabling installation of the shield that properly accommodates the kickstand lever!! I was surprised like that when the manual says you have to take the cowling off to change the oil filter but I found that was not the case at all.
 

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I know you don't need to remove the cowling to install the kickstand, but are you saying you don't have to take the cowling off to replace the exhaust shield? The thread below says you have to peel back the layers, so to speak, to get at one bolt that holds it on.. Terrific news if there's a way around that while still enabling installation of the shield that properly accommodates the kickstand lever!! I was surprised like that when the manual says you have to take the cowling off to change the oil filter but I found that was not the case at all.
I was talking about just the center stand, yes you have to remove the front cowling for the exhaust shield and yes it's a pain.
I only removed the fasters on one side there was enough room to get the shield off but I remember one bolt that very hard to install. So it might be better to just remove the cowling.
 

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Center stand installed with one 'oh darn' spoken because I bolted on the stand before I put the spring pin into the frame.

Upper cowl reinstallation required 5 bad words directed at Honda engineers and two timeouts for bad behavior.

Love my Valk, but all the dang plastic, pins and slots make access so much harder than my bike from the manufacturer that shall not be named.

p.s. Why is the bolt on right side of center stand left hand threaded given that the stand pivots both ways?

Best, Terrell
 

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Center stand installed with one 'oh darn' spoken because I bolted on the stand before I put the spring pin into the frame.

Upper cowl reinstallation required 5 bad words directed at Honda engineers and two timeouts for bad behavior.

Love my Valk, but all the dang plastic, pins and slots make access so much harder than my bike from the manufacturer that shall not be named.

p.s. Why is the bolt on right side of center stand left hand threaded given that the stand pivots both ways?

Best, Terrell
Well, (from what I hear on TV), if your centerstand swings both ways, it should wear its earring on the right side.

Seriously, though, I'm curious if it has something to do with the same reason that some performance/race cars with center-spline hub wheels have "counter-clockwise-to-tighten" (left-threaded) center nuts on (only) the right side of the car? In that case it's because of the rotational direction of the wheels when moving forward and it prevents torque from loosening the center hub lock spinner on the right side. I agree with you that I don't understand the correlation in the case of the centerstand. Glad I could help! :cool:
 

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2 things I forget to say - 1) Thanks to all the people that figured this out and took the time to provide wisdom. 2) Regarding the left exhaust cover, remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt, then lower the front part of the cover about an inch to clear the front bracket, then pull the cover forward another inch to clear the 2 rear brackets.
 
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