Air filter access

4682 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by britman, Feb 25, 2022

Prgrmerror

Discussion Starter · Apr 28, 2019

I removed the Tupperware today it wasn't that bad, hour and a half. My plan is to replace the air filter, antifreeze, brake and clutch fluid, gear oil, and original battery (2014). After removing the 2 lower tank bolts I raised the tank a bit to see under it. I see the 2 fuel lines and wiring connector but I hate to remove the fuel lines to get to the air filter. Has anyone replaced the filter without fully removing the tank? If so, how? Also, any other tips for getting this all done?

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Prgrmerror

Discussion Starter · #2 · Apr 29, 2019

Just looking tank removal over. Second question might be easier if I understood the quick disconnect. Is there a built in check valve so gas in the tank stays there? I am stuck here because I don’t know how to drain the tank safely if it flows once I disconnect the QD. Anyone know?

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Hot Rod

· #3 · Apr 29, 2019

Never had mine off ...YET . But looking it up in factory service manual it says nothing about catching fuel. It does however list what must be disconnected: Quick connect ,Trim clip from both inner cowls.(both sides),Tank to EVAP hose,Tank drain hose. Then remove :Bolts ,washers,tank & collars. install in reverse order. Note : route the wires properly& connect the quick connect.

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Hot Rod

· #4 · Apr 29, 2019

Found something that might help: https://www.revzilla.com/assets/0000/8174/dynojet_pc_v_hon_sfm_valkyrie.pdf

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Thebrain

· #5 · Apr 29, 2019

I have replaced my air filter a little while back. You will need to remove the tank to do so. When you release the fuel line from the tank, other than a little drip from the removed line you won't lose any fuel. The fuel doesn't flow unless the fuel pump is running. The air box lid is bolted on and a couple of the bolts are a little difficult to get to, not terribly hard but with the tank in the way, it will be.

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Prgrmerror

Discussion Starter · #6 · Apr 29, 2019

All helpful. Thanks. I have the service manual and they simply omitted mentioning that. I followed depressurization and removed the disconnect. Just a dribble. I’m actually surprised at all of the convince built in. Flushing the clutch fluid and replacing the antifreeze is done by removing the shrouds and lower cowl. Pretty easy, I hope the spark plugs aren’t expensive and are as easy as the rest is.

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Patrick L

· #7 · Apr 29, 2019

Pull tank off,The fuel line has a lock clip that slides over to side,fuel wont drain out.I had my bike apart last fall to run wire harness for heated grip install. I changed clutch and Brake fluid at same time-And tightened all coolant hose clamps they were loose- Normal after break in (about 23 of them clamps!)

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Prgrmerror

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 29, 2019

Wow. I didn’t think about checking them. I will now. I couldn’t get parts today it’s Monday and Honda is closed. I spent the day shopping on line. I know the dealer near me can be quite expensive sometimes. I want to give them the business but simply handing over hard earned isn’t something I’m going to do. I’ll go in the morning knowing what I should pay and pass on anything that is marked up too much. If that turns out to be most of what I need I’ll get my stuff online. Thanks for the info it’s been very helpful and I’m ready to get this over and back out on the road.

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Prgrmerror

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 30, 2019

Still working on this, I’m in no rush. I have another bike that I ride so I’m not missing this one yet. As I thought Honda was pricey but in the end I wanted oem and paid for it. Air filter and spark plugs installed. To be honest for future readers; removing the tank is not that big of a deal. Nervous yes but fairly easy to do. I should finish up tomorrow. One last mention. To any of you that have lost a plastic clip while working on it; it’s on the air filter cover. Ask me how I know.

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Prgrmerror

Discussion Starter · #10 · May 1, 2019 (Edited)

Finished up today. I still have tires and battery on the list though. Some notes. I have the service manual and used it a lot. The plastic parts are pretty easy to get off and back on. Removing the tank is a snap. It doesn’t even have to be empty. I didn’t have any clips or screws left over. Here is what was done. Air filter. Spark plugs, rear diff oil, flush and fill the clutch and all brakes. The fluid was coffee colored. Motor oil and filter. One pay attention note is the small metal piece that sits over the outlet port in the bottom of the brake fluid reservoir, same for the clutch side. Make sure they are there when you put back together. I paid about 130 for everything needed less the antifreeze. On principal I wasn’t going to pay 9 a quart for Honda brand. After a lot of reading I bought a gallon of Honda extended life from a nearby Honda car dealer. 20 for the gallon. The fine print on the label exactly matches the fine print on the quart bottles. It’s the same stuff word for word and the ingredient list is also identical, and it’s blue. The bike needed all of this at 16K. The air filter especially.