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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I'm new to the forum and a new owner of 2015 Honda Valkyrie purchased at 5k miles. Yesterday night I was riding fast and after hour or two I started to hear some rubbing noise. I could smell burning smoke from shaft drive or rear brake cant tell. So drove slowly and got home and realized something is not right. The Bike wont move when it's in neutral anymore or very hard to move. Something is locking rear wheel.
Any help will be appreciated as it is fairly new with 5k miles on it.

thanks
 

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Not an expert in this, but I'd check to see if the final drive gear oil is drained out or the brake pads have worn out and the rear brake rotor is getting jammed. Really unfortunate for you to be experiencing this on a usually reliable machine. Good luck with the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hear a sound when I ride. It appears to have been coming from shaft drive. There is some sort of grinding noise. I doubt it is disc or brakes. Has anyone seen this type of issue.
 

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If you smelled smoke, that sounds like a brake locking up. I'd think if it was a final drive issue, the sealed system would contain any smell. There's a former member of this forum who had his Valkyrie rear brake lock up due to (according to Honda) water getting in the hydraulic line. Here's his video about it:

Dead Honda Valkyrie?? - YouTube

Honda Valkyrie The Beast is Back! - YouTube

Possible you may be experiencing the same issue. But I would take it straight to the dealer and get that checked. I wish you luck. That sucks.

Richmonder
 

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This also probably won't help, but I thought I'd share my experience that was similar and what it turned out to be. Might jog someone else's mind on the forum to share something more helpful.

Years ago, I'd just got my HD FLH back from an Indie mechanic to do several things, including putting on a new rear tire and timing chain. I got it from back him in the Chicago 'burbs where I was living and immediately rode it to the Ozarks, a fair shake-down cruise. Got to Cedar Rapids where I was picking up my passenger and couldn't walk it out of her garage (backwards) the next morning w/o difficulty. Foolishly got on it anyway (after giving it a cursory eyeball) and headed to the Interstate. Got on ahead of a semi when the brand new rear tire blew. The mechanic had installed the wheel improperly and hadn't locked it down and it "walked" out to the end of an inner fender bolt and the bolt wore right into the sidewall, right in front of the truck. You'd think my butt would have felt if something was that wrong all the way from St. Charles, IL to Cedar Rapids, but it didn't. And I'm an experienced rider. I only bother to share this as you might look at rear wheel alignment or any signs of recent mechanical "maintenance". Wish you the best of luck, and hope this doesn't tarnish your view of the bike. They are quite something and usually quite reliable.

Oh, and he screwed up the timing chain install as well. He went out of business by the time I was back from vacation. I was his last customer.
 

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I would start eliminating possible causes.

Easiest first:
#1 lift the bike, or at least the the rear end up, bike stable, wheel off the ground
#2 loosen both bleed screws on the rear brake caliper (relieve any pressure inside) check to see if the wheel is free to spin
#3 remove brake caliper or brake pads (most likely will have to take the caliper off) check the rear wheel to see if its free to spin

If the rear is still rubbing, not free wheeling, chances are something went wrong with either the final drive, or the rear wheel bearings. You will have to dig in there.

If the rear wheel is free spinning now, the problem is with the brake system.
Check that caliper for stuck pistons, if they're fine, it could be an issue with the rear brake lines (likely the flex hoses) or maybe a master cylinder problem.

Hope this helps.

Tazmool
 

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Is the bike an ABS Model? If yes I may have some additional information.
Tazmool has provided good first steps to trouble shooting to determine brakes or drive. Gotta get that part decided first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks a lot everyone for sharing the very useful diagnosis. I will let you know what I find in few days as I'm not a very good handyman when it comes to doing any sort of bike works. But if it is braking system I'm more relieved.

Does my bike has abs module? Not sure how do I check that.
 

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You are describing identical symptoms that my bike was showing a couple weeks ago. Please read the thread I posted above ....... :)
.... ROD
 

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You are describing identical symptoms that my bike was showing a couple weeks ago. Please read the thread I posted above ....... :)
.... ROD
That's why I asked if it had ABS brakes, remembering HotRod's similar experience.
(Assuming the same issue as my C14 with the ABS Module)
My Kawasaki Concours has specific procedure for bleeding the rear ABS brakes. If this module is not activated, the same old dirty fluid stays inside eventually causing these problems or worse.
Activating the ABS system periodically is the thing to do, along with bleed/flush as recommended by the manufacturer. This is what I found works on my C14, find a safe place to activate the ABS a few times prior to the flush. Perform the flush and repeat, you will easily see when your fluid is clean.

Wonder if this would be the same for all ABS bikes? Anyone with more experience have any thoughts on this?
 

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Any news on this?

I'm betting on a brake issue...

Tazmool
I'm curious as well. The only rear brake issues I've heard of with this bike have been ABS. They need to be properly blead and If I had one I would feel better doing it more frequently.
 

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For what it's worth the bleeding procedure is the same as non ABS on the Honda Goldwing line, the only exception is on models that have the LINKED system...... our bikes do not ...... :)
 

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Noted...Thank you.
My C14 has linked and ABS brakes, maybe that was the issue on that bike. That's good news.
 

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For the GoldWing with linked brakes ...... A LOT more trouble than ours for sure !
Order to bleed :
Front Brake Reservoir
1: Front Right Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 8mm
2: Front Left Brake Middle/lower Bleeder Valve 10mm

Rear Reservoir (under right side chrome)
1: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 8mm
2: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve 10mm
3: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve 8mm
4: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top 10mm
5: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve 10mm
 
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