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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new (to me) Valk is popping on decel or when I'm shifting. It seems to go away mostly after warming up. Is this normal? The previous owner installed aftermarket pipes and removed the baffles, but I don't think he had it retuned.

Should I get it retuned. If so, what's the typical cost?
 

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Do you know if it has the Torque Loops? if so I'd say yes... Torque Loops remove the CATS which majorly messes with the ECM if it is "just" the Torque Masters the ECM "should" be able to adapt. I'd just assume you'd need a real pro to crack into the Honda ECM, but perhaps the previous owner had it done.
 

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I would start with a couple simple things first. I would run some seafoam in the tank and see if it cleans up, maybe its just dirty injectors or something. One can does 20 gallons so its only a couple ounces per tank. Changing spark plugs might help as well, you might have a fouled or bad plug that is not getting good spark. I personally only use NGK and advance auto carries plugs for like $2 a piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The previous owner said they're Torque Masters.

Good idea on the Seafoam.

The bike has only 6K miles so I wouldn't suspect the plugs, although it's possible.
 

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What Flat Six said seems appropriate if you already know the previous owner molested the stock set up, These bikes are smooth and don't have issues with stock set up. I believe the Torque Master pipes are non restrictive, no back pressure? You can research this on their website. You can peek underneath the bike on the high side while on the side stand and see if the Torque Loops are installed. They bi-pass the catalytic converter and you can see them if you know what to look for. If not, they have pics on their website as well and a install video. Can you contact the previous owner to see what he's done? I have two friends that did this, one with the ECU flash by Don Guhl and the other without. You can call Jimmy from Torque Master, "I believe" he said the Flash was not required.

If you know the bike is indeed a stock set up, then I would go the way RRoy indicates. Seafoam is a good preventive measure that can't hurt. My experience has been the Flat six engine both carbureted and fuel injected models are very easy on plugs.

Best of Luck, keep us posted on your findings
 

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With only 6k miles, I would suspect something with the modifications made. Check for leaks if you have the loops both before and after the Cat, should be an easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You can peek underneath the bike on the high side while on the side stand and see if the Torque Loops are installed. They bi-pass the catalytic converter and you can see them if you know what to look for. If not, they have pics on their website as well and a install video.
When I follow the pipe on the ride side, there is a loop underneath the cover and a sensor just upstream if the loop. From what I've seen online, they appear to be Torque Loopz. Correct?
 

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From where I'm sitting, id guess yes. There is a video on his website showing the install and pics of the loops. The install is on a wing I believe but it's all the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I talked to the local Honda Powersports dealer and they said I need to purchase a Power Commander for $650 and then $240 for the install. :oops:

I had the seat off last weekend and don't recall seeing an existing PC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think I figured out the problem. I disconnected the negative battery terminal while hooking up my GPS it's been running rough since. James just sent me the procedure to retrain the ECM.
 

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I think I figured out the problem. I disconnected the negative battery terminal while hooking up my GPS it's been running rough since. James just sent me the procedure to retrain the ECM.
Why would dropping the neg battery terminal effect the ECU/ECM, is it because it was flashed for the Torque Loops? And how do you reprogram it? Curious to hear the outcome and procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's what James sent to me:

NO DO NOT REFLASH ECM...........see attached ECM reset instructions.....or read instructions below.......very simple.........you may need to do it 2 times with 100 miles in between resets........
Torq Master

I would suggest retraining the ECM by doing a hard reset........as follows

1. Disconnect the battery negative lead from battery.

2. Key on.

3. Touch the starter button as if trying to start the engine. (helps discharge any residual e- the system.

4. Key off.

5. Wait about 15 minutes......

6. FROM THIS POINT FORWARD DO NOT TOUCH OR TWIST THROTTLE (until you go riding).

7. Reconnect battery neg. to batt.

8. Key on.

9. Touch/push starter button to start engine. DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

10. Allow to idle for 10 mins (untill fan kicks on). DO NOT TOUCH/TWIST THROTTLE.

10.5 Put on your riding gear :)

11. GO RIDE NORMALLY 20-25 miles. Have fun, be safe.
(well don't be careless, but don't be too careful either :)

12. After a period of time please let me know the outcome........ This usually clears up any ECM/computer glitches........:)

13. You should see 2.5 to 3 MPG better milage if you are riding safe and sane...........if not; hammer on the loud handle and feel the new power............either way it's great to have a WING.........
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did the procedure last night and rode about 50 miles today. The bike still popped a few times at first but, after about 20 miles, it smoothed right out and now runs like a m-a-c-h-i-n-e. The throttle is more responsive and these pipes sound great. I'm super-pleased!!!
 
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