|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-22-2019 06:40 AM|
Nice one Ruboman30. I installed my Rox 2 inch pivoting last week and put 350k on it Saturday. I came up and back basically at 45 degrees I think. Love it. Especially on the highway pegs. Also I freed up more cable by bending up that loop of metal that guides the cable just as it ducks under the headlight/gauge cluster or whatever you want to call it. I had to run them under the Boulevard shield mounts as well but now lock to lock zero throttle bind. Shoot a bit of silicon spray down there if it squeaks. The throttle cables where they only ones that needed looking at, everything else was fine.
I also attached the instrument cluster with a zippy tie because hey it worked. I may fab something up one day but...
Did you have to make tool to tighten those bolts up? To get to those ones underneath I had to cut the end off a 6mm (?) Allen key so it it was only about 8mm long, put it in a spanner and feed that in there. Cheap, nasty, worked.
|09-21-2019 02:07 PM|
Hey guys - I bought the 2" Rox 'pivoting' riser. I was most interested in bringing the bars back towards me as opposed to raising them higher. I ended up with a combination of mostly back along with some up height. I got the bars where I wanted them and then I moved the brake cylinder to the left by about a half inch to relieve the throttle cable strain. It doesn't effect my ability to grab the brake. I still had some concern about the tightness of the throttle cables, so, I took the bike to my local Honda dealer and the service guy told me that I was good lock to lock, but that I should not go any further.
The related issue is, of course, the relocation of the gauge console to accommodate the riser. I solved this problem by purchasing another factory gauge console bracket ($15) and connecting the two of them with a piece of eighth inch by 1 3/4" aluminum cut to the right width. It took me a long time to get the angles right. Using the second factory bracket helped me a lot because it allowed me keep the frame attachment holes exact as well as the three cushioned connection points to the gauge console. So, I only had to worry about the angles, which were a lot of trial and error. My tools were a Sawzall, vice, hammer and bench grinder. Note that you also have to be careful about how far you can stretch the cable going to the gauge. As the cable comes down from the gauge console, it Y's left and right and the two sides are clamped to the frame. I had to remove these clamps to make the whole thing work. Without the clamps, there is the potential for abrasion where the cables could rub against the headlight cover. I zip-tied the two branches of the Y together, but not too tightly. This seems to have solved the problem. I've been watching this and so far I've seen to issues.
After you get the bracket right, there is a lot of cable ugliness visible between the gauge console and the headlight cover. Thankfully, my dark tint windshield covers this up. I also achieved a better viewing angle than the original. My bracket is not something I would proudly show off to an engineer/machinist, but it is very stable with no vibration transmitting up to the console and it's essentially invisible. I'll post some pics when I get the forum's picture posting permission.
|07-03-2019 08:47 AM|
My riding position after the 2" risers and the 1" forward seat puts me in a MUCH better position. Time will tell.
The windshield is a real head rattler. This weekend I will play with the angle of the windshield to see if I can improve the situation. If not Zack at Gustaffson has assured me they will work with me to resolve the matter.
We shall see.
Meanwhile I am waiting for my CycleShell to arrive cuz doing the covering and uncovering the bike almost every day is such a pain in the arse.
|07-02-2019 07:50 PM|
I initially ordered the 22x16 inch shield but it was defective> And I found at 5'10" it was a bit short.
caught some wind in my glasses. So I asked for the new shield to be 22x17" . and that's what you can see
on my Bike on their web site. (no extras charge) https://bikescreen.com/products/hond...-f6c-2014-2016
And after much debate, they agreed that the way their video NOW shows is the best way to mount it.
Also how did your Corbin 1 inch alteration workout for you? Nose Job? I also had that done...
|06-16-2019 12:15 AM|
Darn, didnt think of that.
Thanks, I will check if that applies to the Touring seat I purchased.
|06-16-2019 12:13 AM|
|SLO||I tried it both ways, still lines up the same meaning access to the allen bolts is still through the screw holes in the ROX risers. So I went with the outside direction. Risers come nowhere near the tank so all is good. Maybe there are different models of ROX risers? I didnt look any farther than "fits 1inch Honda Goldwing bars". But I see what you are saying about the "meat" of the risers being inside in line with screw holes for speedo. I will check tomorrow if it is as it seems cuz I do like the idea of drilling and tapping the riser for the speedo.|
|06-15-2019 10:19 PM|
so slo, IF you mounted the ROX risers from the inside of the lower mounts instead of the standard outside as shown in ALL pics, not only would you have direct access to all those cap screws but more the extra support at the top where the handybars nestle would be now on the inside and not the outside of the top clamps.
It seems to me that this extra support area would be perfect for drill and tap to mount the instrument housing exactly as the factory did on the stock risers lower mount. Look at it, study it and see if it makes sense.
as soon as I get this batwing dialed in, I plan to do the 2" Roxies.. reminds me of Eddie Murphy singing that song RoxAnne! beverely hill cops
|06-15-2019 10:13 PM|
|BobMoe||I think the stems are different for driver and passenger. May not apply to all seats. Straight stem is for passenger, bent for driver on my seat.|
|06-15-2019 09:30 PM|
I put on my 2" ROX risers today and what a difference! No more leaning forward onto the handlebars so I bet it wont pain me to ride more than an hour. Loosened the cables and such and ziptied the speedo on til I can make a bracket.
(Oh and BTW, the ROX risers say they pivot but that would be a bit misleading. You have to put your allen wrench through the screw holes of the ROX riser to tighten the bolt that is underneath. So that means straight on top, no pivoting cuz then your wrench wont mate to the bolt underneath. DUH! Still, works a treat anyway.)
Waiting for the Corbin seat that will, if they followed my instructions, move me forward an inch. If that happens this ride will be almost as comfy as my VTX. The seat is supposed to arrive tuesday. Thinking I will go ahead and order a backrest from Corbin anyway. Dunno if I need it but any passenger will appreciate it and it might even work for me when solo.
Went to Gustaffson Plastics and got fitted for a windshield. If I had pulled the trigger on what I thought would work it would have been an inch shorter than what the salesperson suggested. It will be a 16", left undrilled, that they will drill and install as soon as it is finished. Sure is handy that they are just 20 miles away.
Got the light grey one.
Now for some highway pegs to stretch the legs out.
|05-29-2019 10:38 AM|
The part number was given to my from the Tech Geek at Revzilla. He told me they would not work because of the dash---but he did say it was the correct size for the bars and if I could get the dash to work, I was good. Just to double check, I posted the part number here. I know Harley Davidson is all 1 inch bars on everything---minimum. Some are bigger (Got one of them, too) The good thing about HD, there is a ton of traffic on their board, so any question is usually answered in minutes. This is the first Honda I recall owning with 1 inch bars.
I got the replacement risers in yesterday and the difference in 2 inches is amazing. I am still looking to release some of the cable points. Keep in mind that if you run a Boulevard windshield, there is not much wiggle room for mounting the dash unless I can get more cable slack.
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