Changing Tires - Honda Valkyrie F6C Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2020, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Changing Tires

I changed the tires yesterday I went with a set of Avon Cobra Chrome front AV91 120/70ZR19 and rear AV92190/60VR17
Walmart had them closed out for $201 for both back in February.
Front tire when off on on very easy but the rear tire, which should be easy was a pain in the butt, it's one size wider and I couldn't get the tire on, it was stuck between the wheel studs and the muffler after lots of turning, twisting and swearing I even let the air out of the tire which probably didn't help but somehow it went in. (So I don't know how a 200 tire fits.)
So once it was on it looks like there is plenty of room went for a 4 mile ride everything's fine I'll go for a longer ride today,
Here are the tires with 8000 miles on them.

New tires


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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2020, 08:12 PM
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The red lines on the rear tire is that some kind of wear bar???
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2020, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think so, my tire guy though it had 2-3000 miles left on it.
The front was done.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-29-2020, 02:02 PM
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So 8k on the front about 10k on the back good to know... Now i wonder what kind of nightmare it is to change the rear with Corbin bags on, i know what its like to check the tire pressure (glad i put a centerstand on)
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-30-2020, 05:46 AM
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Like for the most of us, that rear tire can be a pain in the ass. Came up with a technique that is about the easiest, or at least painful for me. I installed a center stand which makes things easier. Whatever your process is, get the rear tire at least 2” off the ground. Remove the left rear tailpipe. Obviously do this when it is cool. It’s just two 6mm hex screws just underneath the chrome shields at the mid junction of the exhaust pipe and tail pipe (just need to loosen them, not take them out), and the one 10mm (or maybe 12 mm) hangar bolt and nut on the top of the tail pipe. Then it slides back to come off. You’ll have to gently but firmly work the pipe off when sliding back. There are also two alignment tabs that need to be cleared. Once off, the back tire has plenty of clearance to remove. Installation is just the reverse. Make sure the tabs go back in their slots and use the torque specs for the 6mm hex screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! There’s a compression gasket for the connection between the exhaust pipe and tail pipe. Don’t want to deform that.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-30-2020, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Removing the muffler was the next thing I was looking at doing.
Thanks for the tip, I'll probably do that when it's time to replace the tire.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-30-2020, 05:19 PM
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Did you use any special tools or techniques to get the tires off and on? That is the one bike maintenance chore that beats me every time. Wind up taking the wheels to the bike shop for the tire replacement. Are the painted wheels on the Valk more susceptible to damage compared to non-painted alloy wheels?
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-31-2020, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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No special tools and it looks like the wheels are painted not power coated

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-31-2020, 07:06 PM
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Garage
I wouldn't think the muffler would have to come off to change the rear tire ? It would however require a proper jack to lift it high enough .......
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-01-2020, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by JackB View Post
No special tools and it looks like the wheels are painted not power coated
Oops....Ran into Midwestern taciturn here. My bad.
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