Originally Posted by Patrick L
Go to fuse box find acess fuse in panel ,Then go to under side of panel find the 2 wire that go to that fuse,One wire is power feed other load side,use feed one Thats what I did to hook up my heated grips,only want them to work with key on
pl, why would you use the FEED side of a circuit and not the LOAD side after the fuse? Which circuit and fuse are you trying to piggy back onto? How much new Load Amps does these heated grips and/or any other new device draw? can that circuit either before or after the factory fuse Carry that New load plus its dedicated load ? the risk is that if you overload or have direct short in your New device you risk melting a section of those light weight 20g factory wiring harness and might take out more than just one circuit. Very costly and huge downtime.
I NEVER use factory wiring harness to ADD any new device to a machine. I have wired over 30 bikes accessories with this method.:
Run a New 16gage RED wire from the Battery Positive + post to a New Inline Fuse (proper Amps for new load).
Run a New 16 gage Red wire from the Fuse to a hevy duty Relay input contact terminal (proper Amps for the new load)
Run a New 16 gage Red wire from the Relay output contact terminal to whatever new Load I am installing. Grips, Aux Lighting, Sound system, etc. be mindful of how much New Load amps are being connected.
Run a New 16 gage Black (Honda uses green?) wire from the new installed Load(s) to the Battery Negative - Post ground lug terminal at the frame next to the battery. do NOT connect to just any part of the frame!
Install a new LED pushbutton toggle switch in a convenient place accessible.
Route these 3 conductor cable from LED pushbutton switch to the new Relay.
Find a circuit you deem Non Critical, I use the license plate night light circuit and put a Tap connection on that wire at the harness under the seat, not at the light.
Connect the LED Line Side hot wire to the Tap connection serving the license plate nite lite.
Connect the LED switched Load side wire to the Relay coil + terminal
Connect the LED switch negative wire to the Relay coil - terminal
Run a new 16 gage Black(green?) wire from the Relay coil - terminal to the battery- frame ground terminal post.
NOW your bike has power available to your New Load only when the Key is on and the license plate light is on. Key Off . the circuit goes dead.
Now you are powering your new Aux device Load Amps directly off the battery and not impeding or overloading the bike wiring harness.
The alternator + rectifier will keep the battery topped off, it generally makes more power than you use during normal operation.
never land negative - load wires to just any point on the frame thinking that it all just goes back to the frame ground post anyway.
the frame by itself is a lousy conductor for low voltage 12vdc current and often it finds its way to and thru moving parts.
hardleys had horrible issues with their headlights and aux wiring negative at the fork triple trees.
current passed thru the steering neck bearings and eventually caused them to pit and not function as bearings but flat rocks. impeding ability to turn.
yes DC current will strip away metal one electron at a time.
more to say another post. poncho