Risers NOT - Page 10 - Honda Valkyrie F6C Forum
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post #91 of 95 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SLO View Post
Went to Gustaffson Plastics and got fitted for a windshield. If I had pulled the trigger on what I thought would work it would have been an inch shorter than what the salesperson suggested. It will be a 16", left undrilled, that they will drill and install as soon as it is finished. Sure is handy that they are just 20 miles away.
Got the light grey one.

I initially ordered the 22x16 inch shield but it was defective> And I found at 5'10" it was a bit short.
caught some wind in my glasses. So I asked for the new shield to be 22x17" . and that's what you can see

on my Bike on their web site. (no extras charge) https://bikescreen.com/products/hond...-f6c-2014-2016
And after much debate, they agreed that the way their video NOW shows is the best way to mount it.

Also how did your Corbin 1 inch alteration workout for you? Nose Job? I also had that done...

2014 F6C
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post #92 of 95 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 07:47 AM
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My riding position after the 2" risers and the 1" forward seat puts me in a MUCH better position. Time will tell.
The windshield is a real head rattler. This weekend I will play with the angle of the windshield to see if I can improve the situation. If not Zack at Gustaffson has assured me they will work with me to resolve the matter.
We shall see.
Meanwhile I am waiting for my CycleShell to arrive cuz doing the covering and uncovering the bike almost every day is such a pain in the arse.
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post #93 of 95 (permalink) Old 09-21-2019, 01:07 PM
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Hey guys - I bought the 2" Rox 'pivoting' riser. I was most interested in bringing the bars back towards me as opposed to raising them higher. I ended up with a combination of mostly back along with some up height. I got the bars where I wanted them and then I moved the brake cylinder to the left by about a half inch to relieve the throttle cable strain. It doesn't effect my ability to grab the brake. I still had some concern about the tightness of the throttle cables, so, I took the bike to my local Honda dealer and the service guy told me that I was good lock to lock, but that I should not go any further.

The related issue is, of course, the relocation of the gauge console to accommodate the riser. I solved this problem by purchasing another factory gauge console bracket ($15) and connecting the two of them with a piece of eighth inch by 1 3/4" aluminum cut to the right width. It took me a long time to get the angles right. Using the second factory bracket helped me a lot because it allowed me keep the frame attachment holes exact as well as the three cushioned connection points to the gauge console. So, I only had to worry about the angles, which were a lot of trial and error. My tools were a Sawzall, vice, hammer and bench grinder. Note that you also have to be careful about how far you can stretch the cable going to the gauge. As the cable comes down from the gauge console, it Y's left and right and the two sides are clamped to the frame. I had to remove these clamps to make the whole thing work. Without the clamps, there is the potential for abrasion where the cables could rub against the headlight cover. I zip-tied the two branches of the Y together, but not too tightly. This seems to have solved the problem. I've been watching this and so far I've seen to issues.

After you get the bracket right, there is a lot of cable ugliness visible between the gauge console and the headlight cover. Thankfully, my dark tint windshield covers this up. I also achieved a better viewing angle than the original. My bracket is not something I would proudly show off to an engineer/machinist, but it is very stable with no vibration transmitting up to the console and it's essentially invisible. I'll post some pics when I get the forum's picture posting permission.
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post #94 of 95 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 05:40 AM
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Nice one Ruboman30. I installed my Rox 2 inch pivoting last week and put 350k on it Saturday. I came up and back basically at 45 degrees I think. Love it. Especially on the highway pegs. Also I freed up more cable by bending up that loop of metal that guides the cable just as it ducks under the headlight/gauge cluster or whatever you want to call it. I had to run them under the Boulevard shield mounts as well but now lock to lock zero throttle bind. Shoot a bit of silicon spray down there if it squeaks. The throttle cables where they only ones that needed looking at, everything else was fine.

I also attached the instrument cluster with a zippy tie because hey it worked. I may fab something up one day but...

Did you have to make tool to tighten those bolts up? To get to those ones underneath I had to cut the end off a 6mm (?) Allen key so it it was only about 8mm long, put it in a spanner and feed that in there. Cheap, nasty, worked.
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post #95 of 95 (permalink) Old 04-14-2020, 07:02 PM
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I was able to cut the bottom portion of the wind screne to better contour the headlight and other faring. You will need to drill new holes in the wind screne that will allow you to reduce the gap at the bottom of shield and headlight. Put new chrome buttons in the original screne bolt holes. It looks good and does greatly reduce wind blast, minw went about 4 inches lower.

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