wiring harness - Honda Valkyrie F6C Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-15-2020, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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wiring harness

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is the wiring harness on a Valkyrie the same as on a Goldwing with the exceptiom that the f6c dose not have all the accys meaning is the basic harness simmlar???
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-16-2020, 05:47 PM
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question
is the wiring harness on a Valkyrie the same as on a Goldwing with the exceptiom that the f6c dose not have all the accys meaning is the basic harness simmlar???
I don't think so. I think the f6c uses 6 volt accessories, rather than 12 volt, so I'd guess that means a lot of other differences.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-16-2020, 11:48 PM
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Everything electrical on the bike is 12 volts. I am sure the harness is different than a standard goldwing.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-17-2020, 05:40 PM
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Everything electrical on the bike is 12 volts. I am sure the harness is different than a standard goldwing.
Wiring discussions go over my head, just trying to save someone from making an expensive mistake. Perhaps not part of the harness, but I’ve read on this site that everything on the f6c is not 12 volt and for example, if you make that mistake and put 12 volts on the stock ‘lower voltage’ turn signals, they’ll blow, and they’re not cheap! Here’s one example that discusses wiring adjustments needed for hooking up Showchrome Tridium driving/fog lights with turn signal functionality https://www.f6cforum.com/forum/129-h...s-signals.html and mentions 'lower voltage' turn signals and the Ardmore conversion kit https://www.admorelighting.com/files/A-F6CV1611.pdf that is therefore needed. Perhaps those are the only aspects that are less than 12 volt.

Again, I admit I don't fully understand wiring, just sharing the info that might be helpful.

2nd owner of 2014 Valkyrie

Previous Bikes:
66 Benelli (Montgomery Wards) 125 cc Riverside
74 Yamaha Enduro DT360
74 Honda CB450
76 Kawasaki KH500
77 Yamaha RD400
80 Kawasaki KX250
71 Honda CB750K1
82 Yamaha Virago XV750
'95 Honda Magna VF750CD
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-19-2020, 01:41 PM
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F6C Wiring harness

I have added several lights, including the Showchrome Tridium designed for the Valkyrie (mine is the red 2014), horns, MC Cruise control. I primarily added these accessories for visibility and presence to traffic when I commute everyday. The Valkyrie electrical system is all 12 volt. I have the shop manual which includes the wiring harness diagrams. I also have access to the 2014 Goldwing's wiring diagram. To my surprise, it seems like ALL the wiring harnesses are the same. So, there are some connections that are not used and are factory capped off and tucked away. But they are active. One did not have the fuse installed, but it was just a matter of installing a fuse to activate the connection and then to tap off it. And from what I can see, the alternator is the same as the full Goldwing, meaning that I have all the amp power of a full Goldwing. All the lights I installed are LED, so amp draw was not as much of a concern. I did add a FuzeBlock, because I added an extra pair of loud horns (115dB) which had a higher amp draw and did not want to overload the original wiring system. I just tapped off the original horn switch ground to activate the horns. In combination with the the stock horns, if the can't see me, they WILL certainly HEAR me.

I'm an electrical/electronics technician by trade, so all this was easier for me. The most important thing to remember is ALWAYS match voltage. 12 volt accessories for 12 volt systems. 6 volt accessories for 6 volt systems. Using a 6V accessory with a 12V system (and vice versa) is a HUGE NO-NO! Amps are completely different. The more amps the better. Accessories will only use the amount of amps needed to operate properly. If the system has 100 amps available and the accessory needs 1.5 amps, the accessory will only use 1.5 amps. Make sure the circuit that your accessory is wired to has the fuse capable of handling the amps. This includes all accessories and components on that circuit. Just add all the amp requirements and that the fuse can cover it. If you do not have the amps to cover an accessory's requirement, it may not work or work properly. It will also blow the fuse as it tries to draw the required amps. Also, make sure the circuit has the proper wire gauge to handle the amps that it services. If it's too small, it will overheat, melt the insulation, and can cause a fire. Just goggle amps to wire gauge requirements. On motorcycles (motor vehicles in general), stranded wire is preferable to solid wire. Also, if at all possible, use wire designed for automotive applications because the insulation around the wire is designed to withstand the environmental conditions in automotive applications.

Hope this helps.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-24-2020, 07:58 PM
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The "factory" horns are just fine, i wouldn't want to put something even more loud that's gonna annoy someone to the point that they WANT to run me over......

Opposite-affect.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2020, 05:34 AM
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The "factory" horns are just fine, i wouldn't want to put something even more loud that's gonna annoy someone to the point that they WANT to run me over......

Opposite-affect.

I'd love to put a locomotive horn on the bike and scare the feces out of the moron that needed the blast in the first place.
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